This necklace is a perfect example of an early 19th century transition in jewelry design. Stylistically, and technically, it fits in the juncture of the end of the Georgian and the beginning of the Empire period, which was guided by a taste for French fashion and an admiration for Empress Josephine’s style. 

The design of the necklace is one that was popular in France and would influence many necklaces to come. It is defined by its repetitive motif, a series of garnet-set columns and florets, that are slightly graduated in size. While it is continuous around the neck, it is much more embellished than an 18th century gem-set rivière. The eighteen carat gold columns terminate in luscious flat cut, foiled garnets that are decorated with an early 19th century goldwork called cannetille.  Cannetille was a technique that is made from delicately twisted gold wire that allowed for gold, a precious material, to be used sparingly, while appearing plentiful. Another attribute of the period was the use of gold chains to connect gem set stations. This is a very Classical-inspired look that was a great accompaniment to the simple lines of Empire dresses. 

There were a range of revival styles that started to become popular in the early 19th century, but will fully blossom in the second half of the century. References to Classical antiquity, mythology, archaeological discoveries and more would be popularly used in literature, decorative arts, fashion, and jewelry. It was a period of great discovery and intellectualism, and people loved to demonstrate their knowledge visually as well as intellectually.

Possibly France, ca 1830